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#1
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(summary: what the strange crud on
my focuser, and how/should I clean a mirror?) I've always hankered after a telescope, and wandering around a car boot sale (yeah, I know...) I saw what I though was a bargain. Nice 4 1/2" Newtonian Celestron FirstScope 114, with some (claimed) extra accessories and books. For which I paid the excessive amount of 120 GBP. I know. Too much. I thought these things were *expensive*. http://www.dhinds.co.uk/pages/fullProd.php?id=24 Darn. Mine is clearly a little older, with a wooden tripod. I was told it was owned by a "boy" who is now travelling the world, and the telescope was used twice. (spoilt brat!) Anyway. From reading the instructions, it appears I have the 1 1/4" focuser varient (there was a .96" variant). But I have the lenses from both variants: 10mm SMA 1 1/4" #93372 25mm SMA 1 1/4" #93007-A and SR4mm .96" H20mm .96" I also have a strange .96 barlow 2x (2 parts?), a 1 1/4" barlow 2x, and a "prime focus" camera adapter, pictured he http://www.wdynamic.com/galoots/4ima...?image_id=2439 On initial assembly and trial, it all seems to work, which is a relief. 2 initial concerns. 1) The focusing rack (in yummy plastic) has some kind of sticky stuff on it. On removing some, and doing some trials, it's non-soluble in water and meths, and soluble in white spirit. It's a clear substance. I think it's congealed grease. What should I do with this? It's certainly not a lubricant anymore... 2) The mirror appears fine in daylight, but when I looked "down the tube" with a torch at night, there were spots on the mirror and a really obvious (and I suspect boyish!) fingerprint. Again, what should I do? The mirror "end" has 3 philips screws and 3 knurled nuts, so it looks as if it can be removed. But I've heard complex things about "collimation" ... My ambitions for the 'scope are fairly modest; look at the moon, find the planets, see Saturn's rings, see Jupiter's planets, and... photographh some or all of the above with my Canon a510. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/spec...canon_a510.asp More questions on that topic may follow. BugBear |
#2
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bugbear wrote:
http://www.dhinds.co.uk/pages/fullProd.php?id=24 On line version of the manual. http://www.astronomics.com/main/docu...cope%20114.pdf (1203Kb, PDF) Mine is the #31050 BugBear |
#3
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Can anyone help with this? A couple of
"what do I do know questions" on a new (unanticipated!) telescope. (sorry - to uk.sci.astronomy readers - just X-posting to get input from sci.astro.amateur, which I should have done first-off) BugBear bugbear wrote: (summary: what the strange crud on my focuser, and how/should I clean a mirror?) I've always hankered after a telescope, and wandering around a car boot sale (yeah, I know...) I saw what I though was a bargain. Nice 4 1/2" Newtonian Celestron FirstScope 114, with some (claimed) extra accessories and books. For which I paid the excessive amount of 120 GBP. I know. Too much. I thought these things were *expensive*. http://www.dhinds.co.uk/pages/fullProd.php?id=24 Darn. Mine is clearly a little older, with a wooden tripod. I was told it was owned by a "boy" who is now travelling the world, and the telescope was used twice. (spoilt brat!) Anyway. From reading the instructions, it appears I have the 1 1/4" focuser varient (there was a .96" variant). But I have the lenses from both variants: 10mm SMA 1 1/4" #93372 25mm SMA 1 1/4" #93007-A and SR4mm .96" H20mm .96" I also have a strange .96 barlow 2x (2 parts?), a 1 1/4" barlow 2x, and a "prime focus" camera adapter, pictured he http://www.wdynamic.com/galoots/4ima...?image_id=2439 On initial assembly and trial, it all seems to work, which is a relief. 2 initial concerns. 1) The focusing rack (in yummy plastic) has some kind of sticky stuff on it. On removing some, and doing some trials, it's non-soluble in water and meths, and soluble in white spirit. It's a clear substance. I think it's congealed grease. What should I do with this? It's certainly not a lubricant anymore... 2) The mirror appears fine in daylight, but when I looked "down the tube" with a torch at night, there were spots on the mirror and a really obvious (and I suspect boyish!) fingerprint. Again, what should I do? The mirror "end" has 3 philips screws and 3 knurled nuts, so it looks as if it can be removed. But I've heard complex things about "collimation" ... My ambitions for the 'scope are fairly modest; look at the moon, find the planets, see Saturn's rings, see Jupiter's planets, and... photographh some or all of the above with my Canon a510. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/spec...canon_a510.asp More questions on that topic may follow. BugBear |
#4
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Hi!
I have to be brief because work is demanding my time today.... Don't clean the mirror. If you need a torch to see stuff on it, it's nothing. Do a search (google) on collimation. Here's a great start: http://www.andysshotglass.com/Collimating.html The sticky grease is typical. It will clean with white solvent. Then put a dab of white lithium grease. Get a Rigel or Telrad finder and a good chart book or software (Skytools for software, Sky Atlas 2000 for a book) When you tire of the 4.5", these things will go with the new scope. After you learn collimation and get your views as sharp as possible, clean your mirror....but wait until late November. Mars is getting better every day and there is a lot to see....you can clean the mirror when the weather is foul and there is nothing else to do----and you'll be more comfortable with the process.... Doink "bugbear" wrote in message ... Can anyone help with this? A couple of "what do I do know questions" on a new (unanticipated!) telescope. (sorry - to uk.sci.astronomy readers - just X-posting to get input from sci.astro.amateur, which I should have done first-off) BugBear bugbear wrote: (summary: what the strange crud on my focuser, and how/should I clean a mirror?) I've always hankered after a telescope, and wandering around a car boot sale (yeah, I know...) I saw what I though was a bargain. Nice 4 1/2" Newtonian Celestron FirstScope 114, with some (claimed) extra accessories and books. For which I paid the excessive amount of 120 GBP. I know. Too much. I thought these things were *expensive*. http://www.dhinds.co.uk/pages/fullProd.php?id=24 Darn. Mine is clearly a little older, with a wooden tripod. I was told it was owned by a "boy" who is now travelling the world, and the telescope was used twice. (spoilt brat!) Anyway. From reading the instructions, it appears I have the 1 1/4" focuser varient (there was a .96" variant). But I have the lenses from both variants: 10mm SMA 1 1/4" #93372 25mm SMA 1 1/4" #93007-A and SR4mm .96" H20mm .96" I also have a strange .96 barlow 2x (2 parts?), a 1 1/4" barlow 2x, and a "prime focus" camera adapter, pictured he http://www.wdynamic.com/galoots/4ima...?image_id=2439 On initial assembly and trial, it all seems to work, which is a relief. 2 initial concerns. 1) The focusing rack (in yummy plastic) has some kind of sticky stuff on it. On removing some, and doing some trials, it's non-soluble in water and meths, and soluble in white spirit. It's a clear substance. I think it's congealed grease. What should I do with this? It's certainly not a lubricant anymore... 2) The mirror appears fine in daylight, but when I looked "down the tube" with a torch at night, there were spots on the mirror and a really obvious (and I suspect boyish!) fingerprint. Again, what should I do? The mirror "end" has 3 philips screws and 3 knurled nuts, so it looks as if it can be removed. But I've heard complex things about "collimation" ... My ambitions for the 'scope are fairly modest; look at the moon, find the planets, see Saturn's rings, see Jupiter's planets, and... photographh some or all of the above with my Canon a510. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/spec...canon_a510.asp More questions on that topic may follow. BugBear |
#5
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Doink wrote:
Hi! I have to be brief because work is demanding my time today.... All information is more than I've paid you for ;-) I appreciate your time. Don't clean the mirror. If you need a torch to see stuff on it, it's nothing. Do a search (google) on collimation. Here's a great start: http://www.andysshotglass.com/Collimating.html O.K. That lies a little in my future, but I've bookmarked the link. The sticky grease is typical. It will clean with white solvent. Then put a dab of white lithium grease. By "white solvent" do you mean "paint thinners" AKA "white spirit" (UK) AKA "turpentine substitute" ? Get a Rigel or Telrad finder and a good chart book or software (Skytools for software, Sky Atlas 2000 for a book) When you tire of the 4.5", these things will go with the new scope. After you learn collimation and get your views as sharp as possible, clean your mirror....but wait until late November. Mars is getting better every day and there is a lot to see....you can clean the mirror And ... Chuck Taylor wrote: Never shine a torch down the tube of a telescope. It will always look awful. Ah - so that exagerated the dirtiness. The telescope certainly seemed to be functioning (in the sense that I could see stars) when I took it out. As yet, I need to line up the (cheap) finder-scope, and work out how to operate the equitorial mount without having to think so hard! I've yet to have a cloud free night with a moon showing, so I'm looking forward to that. Thanks to all (both!) for the information. Questions on digicam astrophotography will be forthcoming in time... BugBear BugBear |
#6
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![]() "bugbear" wrote in message ... As yet, I need to line up the (cheap) finder-scope, and work out how to operate the equitorial mount without having to think so hard! http://www.astronomyboy.com/eq/ David |
#7
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bugbear wrote:
Can anyone help with this? 1) The focusing rack (in yummy plastic) has some kind of sticky stuff on it. On removing some, and doing some trials, it's non-soluble in water and meths, and soluble in white spirit. I think it's congealed grease. What should I do with this? It's certainly not a lubricant anymore... If it is not glue to hold it together, clean it off. If it is on the works as a lubricant, replace it with grease. 2) The mirror appears fine in daylight, but when I looked "down the tube" with a torch at night, there were spots on the mirror and a really obvious (and I suspect boyish!) fingerprint. Never shine a torch down the tube of a telescope. It will always look awful. As to cleaning --- yes you can remove the mirror. Once you take the cell out of the tube, you can remove the mirror from the cell. Cleaning options include compressed air, but not the stuff in the computer shops as that can leave a residue. A bulb blower works nice for blowing dust off of smaller optics like the eyepieces. You can also run water over it. If that does not remove something, you can soak it in a very weak soapy water solution. You must use little soap and rinse *very* thoroughly as you do not want any soap film on it. You need to be very careful in handling it. The glass itself is hard, but the reflective coating is extremely thin and therefore quite fragile. If you do need to clean something more thoroughly, use surgical cotton. Holding it under water, gently wipe with the cotton, rotating the cotton so that any dust etc that the cotton picks up is rotated away from the mirror so it can't produce scratches. That said, here is the most important part: Never wash your mirror unless you absolutely have to. The second most important rule is that the mirror can handle a lot more dust on the surface than you think. A dirty mirror will work much better than a mirror covered with tiny scratches from frequent cleanings. Again, what should I do? The mirror "end" has 3 philips screws and 3 knurled nuts, so it looks as if it can be removed. But I've heard complex things about "collimation" ... Collimation is something you need to learn as it is probably not collimated now and will need to be collimated from time to time. But it is not hard. You can find a link to collimation at http://skyandtelescope.com/howto/scopes/ along with a link to an article on cleaning. I should add that in the article on cleaning, there is a picture of cleaning a large pro mirror. They are being pretty aggressive, but notice that the aluminum coating has been removed and it is being cleaned prior to re-aluminzing it. It is this coating which is extremely fragile. Since you are not removing your coating each time you clean it, you need to be *much* more gentle than they are. Hope this helps Chuck Taylor ********************************************* Do you observe the moon? If so, try http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lunar-observing/ If you enjoy optics, try http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ATM_Optics_Software/ ********************************************* |
#8
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Chuck Taylor wrote:
Never shine a torch down the tube of a telescope. It will always look awful. As to cleaning --- yes you can remove the mirror. Once you take the cell out of the tube, you can remove the mirror from the cell. Cleaning options include compressed air, but not the stuff in the computer shops as that can leave a residue. A bulb blower works nice for blowing dust off of smaller optics like the eyepieces. You can also run water over it. If that does not remove something, you can soak it in a very weak soapy water solution. You must use little soap and rinse *very* thoroughly as you do not want any soap film on it. You need to be very careful in handling it. The glass itself is hard, but the reflective coating is extremely thin and therefore quite fragile. If you do need to clean something more thoroughly, use surgical cotton. Holding it under water, gently wipe with the cotton, rotating the cotton so that any dust etc that the cotton picks up is rotated away from the mirror so it can't produce scratches. That said, here is the most important part: Never wash your mirror unless you absolutely have to. The second most important rule is that the mirror can handle a lot more dust on the surface than you think. A dirty mirror will work much better than a mirror covered with tiny scratches from frequent cleanings. Again, what should I do? The mirror "end" has 3 philips screws and 3 knurled nuts, so it looks as if it can be removed. But I've heard complex things about "collimation" ... Collimation is something you need to learn as it is probably not collimated now and will need to be collimated from time to time. But it is not hard. You can find a link to collimation at http://skyandtelescope.com/howto/scopes/ along with a link to an article on cleaning. I should add that in the article on cleaning, there is a picture of cleaning a large pro mirror. They are being pretty aggressive, but notice that the aluminum coating has been removed and it is being cleaned prior to re-aluminzing it. It is this coating which is extremely fragile. Since you are not removing your coating each time you clean it, you need to be *much* more gentle than they are. Hope this helps Chuck Taylor ********************************************* Do you observe the moon? If so, try http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lunar-observing/ If you enjoy optics, try http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ATM_Optics_Software/ ********************************************* |
#9
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bugbear wrote:
Chuck Taylor wrote: (good stuff) and I clicked reply-send without adding anything. Sorry - finger trouble! BugBear |
#10
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No problem.
And collimation is not difficult. You'll get good at it by doing it a couple times and you will see results. Really. And do get a Telrad or Rigel finder---not a finder scope. When you're starting out, a Telrad makes the whole experience easier and more enjoyable...promise. And, ifyou get another telescope, you can use it on that one...Rigels come with 2 bases....look at Astrosystems.biz His Rigels use AA batteries. MUCH better. Yes, standard paint thinner will cut that sticky stuff but be sure and tip the tube so it doesn't run down to the mirror. EQ mounts get easier with practice. Learn to embrace the tube and dance with the mount---seriously. You'll come to appreciate the tracking ease if you start with a decent eyeball polar alignment...visual alinment is enough. Make sure you've set your latitude on the mount. Take care... Email me directly if you'd like. Happy to help.... lancha at ix.netcom dot com (do some repairs and it will work---have to dodge the spammers) Doink "bugbear" wrote in message ... bugbear wrote: Chuck Taylor wrote: (good stuff) and I clicked reply-send without adding anything. Sorry - finger trouble! BugBear |
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