![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi JD, If this was all you done, then no, there's no way you could've
removed any coatings from the corrector plate. What your probably seeing is a film. You might not have done a thorough enough job of cleaning the Corrector Lens. What I would've done first, before wiping ANY type of cleaning product across the Corrector, would be to use a very soft Camel hair brush from a camera shop to very lighty 'Dust" the Corrector to gently remove (Lift) any dust particles first. Then to move onto the clenaing with the liquid solution. This helps prevent any sleeks-scratches in the coatings. As a final wipe, you can try using small pieces of 100% Roll Cotton available at a pharmacy like Walgreens, breathe on the lens, to fog it, and then gently wipe with the roll cotton to dry. This is not that hard to do with a 5" lens. Use the pieces of Roll cotton only for one "Lifting" wipe, then discard. Roll cotton is relatively cheap, and works very good. Mark |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
JD:
So long as you minimized the pressure used during cleaning, you should be okay. Personally, I prefer Olympus photographic paper or a high quality cotton to using microfibre cloths, myself. Here's a sure way to clean your Mak surface an d have it sparkle, so long as what you think happened [removed coating] did not happen: Obtain a kettle and have it generate steam. Alternatively, you can use a hot shower to steam your lens - in both situations, just be careful not to over coat your objective with water - you basically lightly fog it. Whilst fogged, obtain some 99% ISP isopropyl alcohol, and use a good quality photographic paper. Form a "U-shaped" swab by folding the paper lengthwise twice, and then folding it back on the long axis [as if going to fold it in half lengthwise]. To the outside [bottom of the "U"] surface of the paper, apply some isopropyl alcohol, moistening it only enough to not be dripping. Hold the paper on the unmoistened portions of the "U" [ie: the tails, if that makes any sense]. After lightly steaming the corrector surface, apply this paper gently over your surface in radial strokes across the corrector, rotating between "swipes". Repeat as necessary. This should leave your surface VERY clean and streak free. I do this with my 4" refractor objective, and have suggested same to other refractor owners. They have found a similar success in having the surface back to "new". Once you have done the procedure, leave the corrector to air dry for about 1h, then you're done. This sounds silly, but it WORKS, and is totally safe for the optics. Darren Hennig, Edmonton, AB |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
You might also want to take a look at
http://www.weasner.com/etx/buyer-new.../cleaning.html Peter M --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.514 / Virus Database: 312 - Release Date: 28-08-2003 |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
You might also want to take a look at
http://www.weasner.com/etx/buyer-new.../cleaning.html Peter M --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.514 / Virus Database: 312 - Release Date: 28-08-2003 |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
JD:
So long as you minimized the pressure used during cleaning, you should be okay. Personally, I prefer Olympus photographic paper or a high quality cotton to using microfibre cloths, myself. Here's a sure way to clean your Mak surface an d have it sparkle, so long as what you think happened [removed coating] did not happen: Obtain a kettle and have it generate steam. Alternatively, you can use a hot shower to steam your lens - in both situations, just be careful not to over coat your objective with water - you basically lightly fog it. Whilst fogged, obtain some 99% ISP isopropyl alcohol, and use a good quality photographic paper. Form a "U-shaped" swab by folding the paper lengthwise twice, and then folding it back on the long axis [as if going to fold it in half lengthwise]. To the outside [bottom of the "U"] surface of the paper, apply some isopropyl alcohol, moistening it only enough to not be dripping. Hold the paper on the unmoistened portions of the "U" [ie: the tails, if that makes any sense]. After lightly steaming the corrector surface, apply this paper gently over your surface in radial strokes across the corrector, rotating between "swipes". Repeat as necessary. This should leave your surface VERY clean and streak free. I do this with my 4" refractor objective, and have suggested same to other refractor owners. They have found a similar success in having the surface back to "new". Once you have done the procedure, leave the corrector to air dry for about 1h, then you're done. This sounds silly, but it WORKS, and is totally safe for the optics. Darren Hennig, Edmonton, AB |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Meade LXD55 SN10 vs the Meade Starfinder 12.5" | Dave | Amateur Astronomy | 0 | August 30th 03 10:46 PM |
Meade LXD55 (10") or Meade Starfinder (12.5") ?? | Paige Turner | Amateur Astronomy | 13 | August 13th 03 02:52 AM |
ASTRO:Need information on the MEADE ETX-125 Telescope | Phil Wheeler | Amateur Astronomy | 1 | August 1st 03 03:21 PM |