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#11
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You can avoid the need for a compass if you learn how to spot Polaris.
(The North Star) If you look at your star charts, you'll find two of the stars in the big dipper define a line that points right at Polaris. On M57, you'll probably need about 60 power to see the hole in the donut. I typically observe it at about 90 power in my 4.5" refractor. If you pick up a 9 mm eyepiece, you'll have 53.33 power without your barlow, and 106.66 with it. |
#12
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Cherokee wrote:
Ed, How did you get the magnification numbers? I'd like to calculate those for my Pronto. Ed, Brian, What eyepiece should I buy to be able to split these 2? If I need higher magnifications for certain objects, I best buy it right away so I don't have to skip viewing them. The usual rule of thumb says you can make use of 2X per millimetre of aperture under excellent conditions. So for the maximum useful magnification you want an EP that can deliver something like 120X - 150X -- depending on how optimistic you are. Dividing that into the focal length of your objective, which Ed said is 480 mm, gives a range of 3.2 mm (somewhat optimistic) - 4 mm (more conservative), but considering that you already have a 2X Barlow you can combine that with an EP of twice the FL for the same result. For example a 7.5-mm eyepiece will give you 480/7.5 = 64X alone, or 128X with the Barlow. -- Odysseus |
#13
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Chuck,
Thanks. It was a great time - I felt like a kid again. peace, Cherokee |
#14
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Mark,
ahhhhh - find the North star and North and South are immediatly apparent. OK, I have the summer triangle and the North Star to look for. You guys are coming up with some great tips! peace, Cherokee |
#15
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Ed,
A very useful website. I spent around 30 minutes playing around with the simulator. Can you take a moment and explain to me what FOV is all about? I liked the FOV setting at it's widest. What FOV does my 24mm Konig have? Also, if I need 100x to split Epsilon-Lyra, then I need a 4.8mm eyepiece. OK, which eyepiece should I get and from where? I'm eager to order what I need so I can split it. I hate to leave loose ends...... peace, Cherokee |
#16
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Odysseus,
Since I have a 24mm Konig and an Ultima Barlow, this gives me a 24mm eyepiece and a 12mm eyepiece, right? Per my other post, it appears I would next get a 4.8mm eyepiece for 100x???? peace, Cherokee |
#17
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![]() "Cherokee" wrote in message ups.com... Ed, A very useful website. I spent around 30 minutes playing around with the simulator. Can you take a moment and explain to me what FOV is all about? I liked the FOV setting at it's widest. What FOV does my 24mm Konig have? When considering FOV, you have two types to consider. The Apparent Field of View (AFOV) is determined by the eyepiece design. Your Konig has a 60 degree AFOV. An unrestricted AFOV is 360 degrees, but when looking through an eyepiece your view is limited to ~30-90 degrees by the eyepiece. You can look through an eyepiece without a telescope and see the limits of the field and estimate the AFOV. The True Field of View (TFOV) is determined by the eyepiece/telescope combination and describes how much of the night sky fits into the field of view. For example if the full moon fills the field of view of an eyepiece it has a TFOV of ~1/2 degree. True Field of View = Apparent Field of View / Magnification. There are some eyepiece distortions that make this equation less than accurate but for now don't worry about that. Lets take our moon example again. If you are using your 60 degree AFOV Konig at 20x, you'll see about 3 degrees of sky (~6 lunar diameters). Ed T. |
#18
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Using the barlow, you could get a 9mm eyepiece. That would put you a little
over the 100x, but that's okay too. "Cherokee" wrote in message oups.com... Odysseus, Since I have a 24mm Konig and an Ultima Barlow, this gives me a 24mm eyepiece and a 12mm eyepiece, right? Per my other post, it appears I would next get a 4.8mm eyepiece for 100x???? peace, Cherokee |
#19
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Cherokee wrote:
Since I have a 24mm Konig and an Ultima Barlow, this gives me a 24mm eyepiece and a 12mm eyepiece, right? Per my other post, it appears I would next get a 4.8mm eyepiece for 100x???? You certainly could (or something close to it), but a 9.6-mm you could use with the Barlow for 100X would also give you the option of 50X when used alone, giving you in all a choice of 20X, 40X, 50X, & 100X. There wouldn't be any point to using a 4.8-mm EP with the Barlow, because at 200X you'd be 'overdriving' your aperture. OTOH with some 'scope-EP combinations a Barlow can create difficulties in focusing: if a given EP requires the focuser to be racked nearly all the way in, with a Barlow it'll likely 'bottom out' before the view gets sharp. Since your current EP works with your Barlow, if you can find a(n approximately) 9.6mm that's parfocal with the 24mm you can be sure it'll be similarly compatible. -- Odysseus |
#20
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Since I have a 24mm Konig and an Ultima Barlow, this gives me a 24mm
eyepiece and a 12mm eyepiece, right? Per my other post, it appears I would next get a 4.8mm eyepiece for 100x???? I own the Ranger, which has identical optics to the Pronto but uses a 1.25-inch focuser instead of a 2-inch focuster. I also have an 8-24mm zoom eyepiece which, in combination with a Barlow, lets me "dial in" pretty much any magnification I want. Your 24mm eyepiece should be just great for general low- magnification browsing. Eventually, you may want to supplement it with a 2-inch eyepiece to give you a *really* low power and correspondingly vast field of view. When all is said and done, that is the Pronto's greatest strength; few other scopes on the market can touch it for low-power work. For closeup views of deep-sky objects, I usually like to use a magnification of around 50X - 60X on my Ranger, meaning an eyepiece in the 8mm - 9.6mm range. I betcha you would see M57 as a ring at 60X, where it might be much harder at 40X. For planets, I usually like at least 100X, and often higher. Tight double stars and the Moon often profit from 150X, although the marginal gain above 120X is fairly small. Anyway, all these magnifications are best achieved with the aid of a Barlow, because the eye relief of a standard, moderately priced 3mm - 5mm eyepiece is painfully short. In other words, to see the entire field, you nearly have to press your eyeball against the glass. - Tony Flanders |
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