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ASTRO: To Boris



 
 
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  #1  
Old February 25th 08, 04:39 PM posted to alt.binaries.pictures.astro
TheCroW
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 167
Default ASTRO: To Boris

First of all: cool first light of your camera :-)

Second: I took the liberty of making your big BMP to a small JPG. Way easier
to download and no (noticeable) degrading of the image.

Third: when you post, make sure you begin the subject of the posting with
ASTRO, so in this case "ASTRO: First Canon 300D image (M42)" ... this is
done to filter out spam. People will only view posting with ASTRO in it or
filter that out.

--
Menno
=====================
My 3D Art can be seen on
http://www.3dart4u.com
http://tinyurl.com/c8g96 (3DCommune)
http://brycetest.3dart4u.com (Bryce Speed Test)
=====================
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  #2  
Old February 25th 08, 04:50 PM posted to alt.binaries.pictures.astro
Boris[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 11
Default ASTRO: To Boris

Thanks for the advice about posting, I'll remember it for next time.
"TheCroW" wrote in message
...
First of all: cool first light of your camera :-)

Second: I took the liberty of making your big BMP to a small JPG. Way
easier to download and no (noticeable) degrading of the image.

Third: when you post, make sure you begin the subject of the posting with
ASTRO, so in this case "ASTRO: First Canon 300D image (M42)" ... this is
done to filter out spam. People will only view posting with ASTRO in it or
filter that out.

--
Menno
=====================
My 3D Art can be seen on
http://www.3dart4u.com
http://tinyurl.com/c8g96 (3DCommune)
http://brycetest.3dart4u.com (Bryce Speed Test)
=====================
Remove nospam in mail address when mailing me




  #3  
Old February 25th 08, 07:11 PM posted to alt.binaries.pictures.astro
Rick Johnson[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 262
Default ASTRO: To Boris



TheCroW wrote:

First of all: cool first light of your camera :-)

Second: I took the liberty of making your big BMP to a small JPG. Way easier
to download and no (noticeable) degrading of the image.

Third: when you post, make sure you begin the subject of the posting with
ASTRO, so in this case "ASTRO: First Canon 300D image (M42)" ... this is
done to filter out spam. People will only view posting with ASTRO in it or
filter that out.



My ISP now bans multipart posts. So I didn't see it. The various
usenet replayer web pages some rely on for these images also don't pick
up multipart or bmp format images.
http://www.usenet-replayer.com/webrings/astro.html
http://www.spacebanter.com/forumdisplay.php?f=25

Those on dialup -- still a majority --- won't even try to download them.

Now that I can see it a couple suggestions.

You cut the background to black which loses faint detail in the nebula.
Leave it a bit grey, see other posts to this group. Open star
clusters can look good with the jet black background but too much is
lost with nebula. Many won't do it with clusters either.

The core is burned in. There was likely data there but it got burned in
during processing the fainter outer parts. If you isolate the core with
a generous feather you can process each separately to prevent this.

Another solution that works with some stacking programs is to take short
and long exposures and stack using the ADD mode. A smart add routine
will retain the detail in the bright core making it much easier to
process. Since I didn't get your post I don't know any details on how
it was taken.

Looks like an unmodified DSLR with the original IR cut filter blocking
most of the H alpha light. I'm assuming that's why most of the
characteristic pink of HII is not seen. The filter lets the blue H-beta
through but blocks most of the red H-alpha. Then the OIII comes
screaming though hiding the hydrogen except in the areas lacking much
OIII. At least this looks like that type of color balance. You might
want to look into modifying that IR cut filter once the camera's
warranty has run out. It will perform far better on emission nebula.
M42 is one of few bright enough to image without the modification but
you miss a lot doing so.

For an example of the nebula with a Hutech modified Canon 40D using 2 5
minute exposures and a 4" f/5.4 refractor see:
http://www.spacebanter.com/showthread.php?t=115073
Those were too long to preserve detail around the trapezium.

I'd try stacking 30" and 2' and 5' and see what that does for the core
region. 30" should do well with the core, 2 minute the brighter parts
and 5 the dim.

Looks like you need to work on focusing as well. Maybe it was just a
night of really bad seeing but stars look defocused to me. Again, not
getting your post I don't know what scope you used. I'm assuming a
small refractor from the image scale.

Rick

--
Correct domain name is arvig and it is net not com. Prefix is correct.
Third character is a zero rather than a capital "Oh".

  #4  
Old February 26th 08, 09:44 AM posted to alt.binaries.pictures.astro
Boris[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 11
Default ASTRO: To Boris

Thanks for the advice Rick. The details you missed a

15x 30Sec with dark subtraction, 1600ISO 127mm f5.5 refractor with Baadar
contrast booster filter

Stacked in Deep Sky Stacker with noise reduced, sharpened, levels and curves
adjusted in photoshop


"Rick Johnson" wrote in message
...


TheCroW wrote:

First of all: cool first light of your camera :-)

Second: I took the liberty of making your big BMP to a small JPG. Way
easier to download and no (noticeable) degrading of the image.

Third: when you post, make sure you begin the subject of the posting with
ASTRO, so in this case "ASTRO: First Canon 300D image (M42)" ... this is
done to filter out spam. People will only view posting with ASTRO in it
or filter that out.



My ISP now bans multipart posts. So I didn't see it. The various usenet
replayer web pages some rely on for these images also don't pick up
multipart or bmp format images.
http://www.usenet-replayer.com/webrings/astro.html
http://www.spacebanter.com/forumdisplay.php?f=25

Those on dialup -- still a majority --- won't even try to download them.

Now that I can see it a couple suggestions.

You cut the background to black which loses faint detail in the nebula.
Leave it a bit grey, see other posts to this group. Open star clusters
can look good with the jet black background but too much is lost with
nebula. Many won't do it with clusters either.

The core is burned in. There was likely data there but it got burned in
during processing the fainter outer parts. If you isolate the core with a
generous feather you can process each separately to prevent this.

Another solution that works with some stacking programs is to take short
and long exposures and stack using the ADD mode. A smart add routine will
retain the detail in the bright core making it much easier to process.
Since I didn't get your post I don't know any details on how it was taken.

Looks like an unmodified DSLR with the original IR cut filter blocking
most of the H alpha light. I'm assuming that's why most of the
characteristic pink of HII is not seen. The filter lets the blue H-beta
through but blocks most of the red H-alpha. Then the OIII comes screaming
though hiding the hydrogen except in the areas lacking much OIII. At
least this looks like that type of color balance. You might want to look
into modifying that IR cut filter once the camera's warranty has run out.
It will perform far better on emission nebula. M42 is one of few bright
enough to image without the modification but you miss a lot doing so.

For an example of the nebula with a Hutech modified Canon 40D using 2 5
minute exposures and a 4" f/5.4 refractor see:
http://www.spacebanter.com/showthread.php?t=115073
Those were too long to preserve detail around the trapezium.

I'd try stacking 30" and 2' and 5' and see what that does for the core
region. 30" should do well with the core, 2 minute the brighter parts and
5 the dim.

Looks like you need to work on focusing as well. Maybe it was just a
night of really bad seeing but stars look defocused to me. Again, not
getting your post I don't know what scope you used. I'm assuming a small
refractor from the image scale.

Rick

--
Correct domain name is arvig and it is net not com. Prefix is correct.
Third character is a zero rather than a capital "Oh".



  #5  
Old February 26th 08, 06:05 PM posted to alt.binaries.pictures.astro
Rick Johnson[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 262
Default ASTRO: To Boris

With such short exposures the core detail is there, just burned in by
over processing to bring out the faint outer detail. Starting with the
stacked images use photoshop in 16 bit mode to select the core region
with a feather of 5 to 10. May take some experimentation for the right
value. Then process the core, now invert the selection and process the
rest of the nebula. You may need to go back and forth a few times as
you build both. That should give you good core detail as well as the
outer parts.

Better yet but more complicated, you can just make two images, one
processed for the core, one for the outer parts. You already have the
outer part version. Again, use 16 bit mode. Then select the core of
the core processed image, again with a feather, maybe 10 or so, and cut
it out. Make a blank layer for the full nebula version and paste the
core into that layer. Now set the opacity of that layer to about 50% so
you can see both layers. Use the nudge tool to align the two. Once
aligned set the opacity to where you want it, likely near or at 100%,
flatten the image and you are done. With the right feather the merger
will be invisible and you'll have both the trapezium and outer parts in
one image. Save your work as a 16 bit Tiff or Photoshop file, assuming
it was imported as a 16 bit file, then convert to 8 bit and save for the
net as a JPEG at 8 compression.

You may find you need to adjust part of the bottom layer near the core
because it is just too bright and they don't merge well. If so, select
the bottom layer then select the area that needs to be adjusted, again
with a feather appropriate to the size of the area that needs
adjustment. Be sure both layers are visible and opacity is set where
you want it. Now, with the bottom layer selected, adjust the intensity
using curves until the two blend the way you want it.

This takes some practice to learn but makes for much better images of
objects with such a strong difference in brightness levels. Sometimes
you may want to use three layers.

It's best if the core uses the 30" images while the rest uses 5 minute
images but I assume you used 30" images because you can't guide the
image. So that would be impossible for now.

Rick


Boris wrote:

Thanks for the advice Rick. The details you missed a

15x 30Sec with dark subtraction, 1600ISO 127mm f5.5 refractor with Baadar
contrast booster filter

Stacked in Deep Sky Stacker with noise reduced, sharpened, levels and curves
adjusted in photoshop


"Rick Johnson" wrote in message
...


TheCroW wrote:


First of all: cool first light of your camera :-)

Second: I took the liberty of making your big BMP to a small JPG. Way
easier to download and no (noticeable) degrading of the image.

Third: when you post, make sure you begin the subject of the posting with
ASTRO, so in this case "ASTRO: First Canon 300D image (M42)" ... this is
done to filter out spam. People will only view posting with ASTRO in it
or filter that out.



My ISP now bans multipart posts. So I didn't see it. The various usenet
replayer web pages some rely on for these images also don't pick up
multipart or bmp format images.
http://www.usenet-replayer.com/webrings/astro.html
http://www.spacebanter.com/forumdisplay.php?f=25

Those on dialup -- still a majority --- won't even try to download them.

Now that I can see it a couple suggestions.

You cut the background to black which loses faint detail in the nebula.
Leave it a bit grey, see other posts to this group. Open star clusters
can look good with the jet black background but too much is lost with
nebula. Many won't do it with clusters either.

The core is burned in. There was likely data there but it got burned in
during processing the fainter outer parts. If you isolate the core with a
generous feather you can process each separately to prevent this.

Another solution that works with some stacking programs is to take short
and long exposures and stack using the ADD mode. A smart add routine will
retain the detail in the bright core making it much easier to process.
Since I didn't get your post I don't know any details on how it was taken.

Looks like an unmodified DSLR with the original IR cut filter blocking
most of the H alpha light. I'm assuming that's why most of the
characteristic pink of HII is not seen. The filter lets the blue H-beta
through but blocks most of the red H-alpha. Then the OIII comes screaming
though hiding the hydrogen except in the areas lacking much OIII. At
least this looks like that type of color balance. You might want to look
into modifying that IR cut filter once the camera's warranty has run out.
It will perform far better on emission nebula. M42 is one of few bright
enough to image without the modification but you miss a lot doing so.

For an example of the nebula with a Hutech modified Canon 40D using 2 5
minute exposures and a 4" f/5.4 refractor see:
http://www.spacebanter.com/showthread.php?t=115073
Those were too long to preserve detail around the trapezium.

I'd try stacking 30" and 2' and 5' and see what that does for the core
region. 30" should do well with the core, 2 minute the brighter parts and
5 the dim.

Looks like you need to work on focusing as well. Maybe it was just a
night of really bad seeing but stars look defocused to me. Again, not
getting your post I don't know what scope you used. I'm assuming a small
refractor from the image scale.

Rick

--
Correct domain name is arvig and it is net not com. Prefix is correct.
Third character is a zero rather than a capital "Oh".





--
Correct domain name is arvig and it is net not com. Prefix is correct.
Third character is a zero rather than a capital "Oh".

  #6  
Old February 26th 08, 08:51 PM posted to alt.binaries.pictures.astro
Stefan Lilge
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,269
Default ASTRO: To Boris

Menno, thanks for putting this into a readable format. Nice shot.

Stefan

"TheCroW" schrieb im Newsbeitrag
...
First of all: cool first light of your camera :-)

Second: I took the liberty of making your big BMP to a small JPG. Way
easier to download and no (noticeable) degrading of the image.

Third: when you post, make sure you begin the subject of the posting with
ASTRO, so in this case "ASTRO: First Canon 300D image (M42)" ... this is
done to filter out spam. People will only view posting with ASTRO in it or
filter that out.

--
Menno
=====================
My 3D Art can be seen on
http://www.3dart4u.com
http://tinyurl.com/c8g96 (3DCommune)
http://brycetest.3dart4u.com (Bryce Speed Test)
=====================
Remove nospam in mail address when mailing me




  #7  
Old February 27th 08, 09:49 AM posted to alt.binaries.pictures.astro
Boris[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 11
Default ASTRO: To Boris

Thank you everyone for the comments, they are much appreciated.


"TheCroW" wrote in message
...
First of all: cool first light of your camera :-)

Second: I took the liberty of making your big BMP to a small JPG. Way
easier to download and no (noticeable) degrading of the image.

Third: when you post, make sure you begin the subject of the posting with
ASTRO, so in this case "ASTRO: First Canon 300D image (M42)" ... this is
done to filter out spam. People will only view posting with ASTRO in it or
filter that out.

--
Menno
=====================
My 3D Art can be seen on
http://www.3dart4u.com
http://tinyurl.com/c8g96 (3DCommune)
http://brycetest.3dart4u.com (Bryce Speed Test)
=====================
Remove nospam in mail address when mailing me




 




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