#1
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ASTRO: To Boris
First of all: cool first light of your camera :-)
Second: I took the liberty of making your big BMP to a small JPG. Way easier to download and no (noticeable) degrading of the image. Third: when you post, make sure you begin the subject of the posting with ASTRO, so in this case "ASTRO: First Canon 300D image (M42)" ... this is done to filter out spam. People will only view posting with ASTRO in it or filter that out. -- Menno ===================== My 3D Art can be seen on http://www.3dart4u.com http://tinyurl.com/c8g96 (3DCommune) http://brycetest.3dart4u.com (Bryce Speed Test) ===================== Remove nospam in mail address when mailing me |
#2
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ASTRO: To Boris
Thanks for the advice about posting, I'll remember it for next time.
"TheCroW" wrote in message ... First of all: cool first light of your camera :-) Second: I took the liberty of making your big BMP to a small JPG. Way easier to download and no (noticeable) degrading of the image. Third: when you post, make sure you begin the subject of the posting with ASTRO, so in this case "ASTRO: First Canon 300D image (M42)" ... this is done to filter out spam. People will only view posting with ASTRO in it or filter that out. -- Menno ===================== My 3D Art can be seen on http://www.3dart4u.com http://tinyurl.com/c8g96 (3DCommune) http://brycetest.3dart4u.com (Bryce Speed Test) ===================== Remove nospam in mail address when mailing me |
#3
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ASTRO: To Boris
TheCroW wrote: First of all: cool first light of your camera :-) Second: I took the liberty of making your big BMP to a small JPG. Way easier to download and no (noticeable) degrading of the image. Third: when you post, make sure you begin the subject of the posting with ASTRO, so in this case "ASTRO: First Canon 300D image (M42)" ... this is done to filter out spam. People will only view posting with ASTRO in it or filter that out. My ISP now bans multipart posts. So I didn't see it. The various usenet replayer web pages some rely on for these images also don't pick up multipart or bmp format images. http://www.usenet-replayer.com/webrings/astro.html http://www.spacebanter.com/forumdisplay.php?f=25 Those on dialup -- still a majority --- won't even try to download them. Now that I can see it a couple suggestions. You cut the background to black which loses faint detail in the nebula. Leave it a bit grey, see other posts to this group. Open star clusters can look good with the jet black background but too much is lost with nebula. Many won't do it with clusters either. The core is burned in. There was likely data there but it got burned in during processing the fainter outer parts. If you isolate the core with a generous feather you can process each separately to prevent this. Another solution that works with some stacking programs is to take short and long exposures and stack using the ADD mode. A smart add routine will retain the detail in the bright core making it much easier to process. Since I didn't get your post I don't know any details on how it was taken. Looks like an unmodified DSLR with the original IR cut filter blocking most of the H alpha light. I'm assuming that's why most of the characteristic pink of HII is not seen. The filter lets the blue H-beta through but blocks most of the red H-alpha. Then the OIII comes screaming though hiding the hydrogen except in the areas lacking much OIII. At least this looks like that type of color balance. You might want to look into modifying that IR cut filter once the camera's warranty has run out. It will perform far better on emission nebula. M42 is one of few bright enough to image without the modification but you miss a lot doing so. For an example of the nebula with a Hutech modified Canon 40D using 2 5 minute exposures and a 4" f/5.4 refractor see: http://www.spacebanter.com/showthread.php?t=115073 Those were too long to preserve detail around the trapezium. I'd try stacking 30" and 2' and 5' and see what that does for the core region. 30" should do well with the core, 2 minute the brighter parts and 5 the dim. Looks like you need to work on focusing as well. Maybe it was just a night of really bad seeing but stars look defocused to me. Again, not getting your post I don't know what scope you used. I'm assuming a small refractor from the image scale. Rick -- Correct domain name is arvig and it is net not com. Prefix is correct. Third character is a zero rather than a capital "Oh". |
#4
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ASTRO: To Boris
Thanks for the advice Rick. The details you missed a
15x 30Sec with dark subtraction, 1600ISO 127mm f5.5 refractor with Baadar contrast booster filter Stacked in Deep Sky Stacker with noise reduced, sharpened, levels and curves adjusted in photoshop "Rick Johnson" wrote in message ... TheCroW wrote: First of all: cool first light of your camera :-) Second: I took the liberty of making your big BMP to a small JPG. Way easier to download and no (noticeable) degrading of the image. Third: when you post, make sure you begin the subject of the posting with ASTRO, so in this case "ASTRO: First Canon 300D image (M42)" ... this is done to filter out spam. People will only view posting with ASTRO in it or filter that out. My ISP now bans multipart posts. So I didn't see it. The various usenet replayer web pages some rely on for these images also don't pick up multipart or bmp format images. http://www.usenet-replayer.com/webrings/astro.html http://www.spacebanter.com/forumdisplay.php?f=25 Those on dialup -- still a majority --- won't even try to download them. Now that I can see it a couple suggestions. You cut the background to black which loses faint detail in the nebula. Leave it a bit grey, see other posts to this group. Open star clusters can look good with the jet black background but too much is lost with nebula. Many won't do it with clusters either. The core is burned in. There was likely data there but it got burned in during processing the fainter outer parts. If you isolate the core with a generous feather you can process each separately to prevent this. Another solution that works with some stacking programs is to take short and long exposures and stack using the ADD mode. A smart add routine will retain the detail in the bright core making it much easier to process. Since I didn't get your post I don't know any details on how it was taken. Looks like an unmodified DSLR with the original IR cut filter blocking most of the H alpha light. I'm assuming that's why most of the characteristic pink of HII is not seen. The filter lets the blue H-beta through but blocks most of the red H-alpha. Then the OIII comes screaming though hiding the hydrogen except in the areas lacking much OIII. At least this looks like that type of color balance. You might want to look into modifying that IR cut filter once the camera's warranty has run out. It will perform far better on emission nebula. M42 is one of few bright enough to image without the modification but you miss a lot doing so. For an example of the nebula with a Hutech modified Canon 40D using 2 5 minute exposures and a 4" f/5.4 refractor see: http://www.spacebanter.com/showthread.php?t=115073 Those were too long to preserve detail around the trapezium. I'd try stacking 30" and 2' and 5' and see what that does for the core region. 30" should do well with the core, 2 minute the brighter parts and 5 the dim. Looks like you need to work on focusing as well. Maybe it was just a night of really bad seeing but stars look defocused to me. Again, not getting your post I don't know what scope you used. I'm assuming a small refractor from the image scale. Rick -- Correct domain name is arvig and it is net not com. Prefix is correct. Third character is a zero rather than a capital "Oh". |
#5
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ASTRO: To Boris
With such short exposures the core detail is there, just burned in by
over processing to bring out the faint outer detail. Starting with the stacked images use photoshop in 16 bit mode to select the core region with a feather of 5 to 10. May take some experimentation for the right value. Then process the core, now invert the selection and process the rest of the nebula. You may need to go back and forth a few times as you build both. That should give you good core detail as well as the outer parts. Better yet but more complicated, you can just make two images, one processed for the core, one for the outer parts. You already have the outer part version. Again, use 16 bit mode. Then select the core of the core processed image, again with a feather, maybe 10 or so, and cut it out. Make a blank layer for the full nebula version and paste the core into that layer. Now set the opacity of that layer to about 50% so you can see both layers. Use the nudge tool to align the two. Once aligned set the opacity to where you want it, likely near or at 100%, flatten the image and you are done. With the right feather the merger will be invisible and you'll have both the trapezium and outer parts in one image. Save your work as a 16 bit Tiff or Photoshop file, assuming it was imported as a 16 bit file, then convert to 8 bit and save for the net as a JPEG at 8 compression. You may find you need to adjust part of the bottom layer near the core because it is just too bright and they don't merge well. If so, select the bottom layer then select the area that needs to be adjusted, again with a feather appropriate to the size of the area that needs adjustment. Be sure both layers are visible and opacity is set where you want it. Now, with the bottom layer selected, adjust the intensity using curves until the two blend the way you want it. This takes some practice to learn but makes for much better images of objects with such a strong difference in brightness levels. Sometimes you may want to use three layers. It's best if the core uses the 30" images while the rest uses 5 minute images but I assume you used 30" images because you can't guide the image. So that would be impossible for now. Rick Boris wrote: Thanks for the advice Rick. The details you missed a 15x 30Sec with dark subtraction, 1600ISO 127mm f5.5 refractor with Baadar contrast booster filter Stacked in Deep Sky Stacker with noise reduced, sharpened, levels and curves adjusted in photoshop "Rick Johnson" wrote in message ... TheCroW wrote: First of all: cool first light of your camera :-) Second: I took the liberty of making your big BMP to a small JPG. Way easier to download and no (noticeable) degrading of the image. Third: when you post, make sure you begin the subject of the posting with ASTRO, so in this case "ASTRO: First Canon 300D image (M42)" ... this is done to filter out spam. People will only view posting with ASTRO in it or filter that out. My ISP now bans multipart posts. So I didn't see it. The various usenet replayer web pages some rely on for these images also don't pick up multipart or bmp format images. http://www.usenet-replayer.com/webrings/astro.html http://www.spacebanter.com/forumdisplay.php?f=25 Those on dialup -- still a majority --- won't even try to download them. Now that I can see it a couple suggestions. You cut the background to black which loses faint detail in the nebula. Leave it a bit grey, see other posts to this group. Open star clusters can look good with the jet black background but too much is lost with nebula. Many won't do it with clusters either. The core is burned in. There was likely data there but it got burned in during processing the fainter outer parts. If you isolate the core with a generous feather you can process each separately to prevent this. Another solution that works with some stacking programs is to take short and long exposures and stack using the ADD mode. A smart add routine will retain the detail in the bright core making it much easier to process. Since I didn't get your post I don't know any details on how it was taken. Looks like an unmodified DSLR with the original IR cut filter blocking most of the H alpha light. I'm assuming that's why most of the characteristic pink of HII is not seen. The filter lets the blue H-beta through but blocks most of the red H-alpha. Then the OIII comes screaming though hiding the hydrogen except in the areas lacking much OIII. At least this looks like that type of color balance. You might want to look into modifying that IR cut filter once the camera's warranty has run out. It will perform far better on emission nebula. M42 is one of few bright enough to image without the modification but you miss a lot doing so. For an example of the nebula with a Hutech modified Canon 40D using 2 5 minute exposures and a 4" f/5.4 refractor see: http://www.spacebanter.com/showthread.php?t=115073 Those were too long to preserve detail around the trapezium. I'd try stacking 30" and 2' and 5' and see what that does for the core region. 30" should do well with the core, 2 minute the brighter parts and 5 the dim. Looks like you need to work on focusing as well. Maybe it was just a night of really bad seeing but stars look defocused to me. Again, not getting your post I don't know what scope you used. I'm assuming a small refractor from the image scale. Rick -- Correct domain name is arvig and it is net not com. Prefix is correct. Third character is a zero rather than a capital "Oh". -- Correct domain name is arvig and it is net not com. Prefix is correct. Third character is a zero rather than a capital "Oh". |
#6
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ASTRO: To Boris
Menno, thanks for putting this into a readable format. Nice shot.
Stefan "TheCroW" schrieb im Newsbeitrag ... First of all: cool first light of your camera :-) Second: I took the liberty of making your big BMP to a small JPG. Way easier to download and no (noticeable) degrading of the image. Third: when you post, make sure you begin the subject of the posting with ASTRO, so in this case "ASTRO: First Canon 300D image (M42)" ... this is done to filter out spam. People will only view posting with ASTRO in it or filter that out. -- Menno ===================== My 3D Art can be seen on http://www.3dart4u.com http://tinyurl.com/c8g96 (3DCommune) http://brycetest.3dart4u.com (Bryce Speed Test) ===================== Remove nospam in mail address when mailing me |
#7
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ASTRO: To Boris
Thank you everyone for the comments, they are much appreciated.
"TheCroW" wrote in message ... First of all: cool first light of your camera :-) Second: I took the liberty of making your big BMP to a small JPG. Way easier to download and no (noticeable) degrading of the image. Third: when you post, make sure you begin the subject of the posting with ASTRO, so in this case "ASTRO: First Canon 300D image (M42)" ... this is done to filter out spam. People will only view posting with ASTRO in it or filter that out. -- Menno ===================== My 3D Art can be seen on http://www.3dart4u.com http://tinyurl.com/c8g96 (3DCommune) http://brycetest.3dart4u.com (Bryce Speed Test) ===================== Remove nospam in mail address when mailing me |
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