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#11
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Alan,
It's a Bushnell (this is where I insert justification. It was a gift. It is better than nothing) 675x4.5" Reflector Focal length (mm) 900 thanks.... jojo Far better than the first scope I ever owned.. How to collimate your scope with no tools, Larry Gilstrap' page: http://gilstrap.home.texas.net/collimat/NoTools.html jon |
#12
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You don't have to wait until night...in fact, right now
in broad daylight is actually a better time to do it! Tom W. jojo wrote: "bwhiting" wrote in message ... For starters, look into the eyepiece hole (I am assuming a reflector telescope here, with 2 mirrors) without an eyepiece, and see if the complete reflection of the primary mirror is reflected off the secondary mirror up thru the eyepiece hole, AND if the secondary mirror is centered in your eyepiece hole, which you can tell by looking at the secondary holders (spider) mount. They should be roughly equidistant in length. If its not centered nearly perfectly, then you are probably out of collimation....for starters. Clear Skies, Tom W. Thanks Tom. I'll look at those tonight... jojo |
#13
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![]() "Jon Isaacs" wrote in message ... Alan, It's a Bushnell (this is where I insert justification. It was a gift. It is better than nothing) 675x4.5" Reflector Focal length (mm) 900 thanks.... jojo Far better than the first scope I ever owned.. How to collimate your scope with no tools, Larry Gilstrap' page: http://gilstrap.home.texas.net/collimat/NoTools.html jon jon, Thanks, That is a great reference!!!! jojo |
#14
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![]() "bwhiting" wrote in message ... You don't have to wait until night...in fact, right now in broad daylight is actually a better time to do it! Tom W. jojo wrote: "bwhiting" wrote in message ... For starters, look into the eyepiece hole (I am assuming a reflector telescope here, with 2 mirrors) without an eyepiece, and see if the complete reflection of the primary mirror is reflected off the secondary mirror up thru the eyepiece hole, AND if the secondary mirror is centered in your eyepiece hole, which you can tell by looking at the secondary holders (spider) mount. They should be roughly equidistant in length. If its not centered nearly perfectly, then you are probably out of collimation....for starters. Clear Skies, Tom W. Thanks Tom. I'll look at those tonight... jojo Ah, but I'm at work at the scope is at home. I'll look at it on Saturday if daylight is better! Thanks! jojo |
#15
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jon,
Thanks, That is a great reference!!!! jojo Don't thank me, thank Larry Gilstrap, he's the one who took the time to put that page together. Best wishes and enjoy your scope. Lots to see in a 4.5 inch Newtonian. If you scope can take 1.25 inch eyepieces, you might want to consider getting a few basic eyepieces to add to your collection, they should improve the views considerably. www.scopestuff.com has some nice deals. Another thing to be aware of. Your scope is "rated" by the manufacturer at 675X. This is just a marketing ploy, scopes are not rated this way and it is unreasonable to think that 675X would be anymore than a fuzzy mess. it would be in most scopes the vast majority of the time. The rule of thumb is 50 times the aperture in inches is the highest useable magnification under the best circumstances. For your scope this works out to about 220X. Even with larger scopes, 10 inches and above, most viewing is done at under 200X. So, 200X is more than enough, 120X and under will probably be where most of the nice views are in this scope, plenty to see there. Just a bit of a "heads up" to head of some possible frustration and disappointment. Again, best wishes on your new scope and enjoy the heck out of it. jon |
#16
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![]() "Jon Isaacs" wrote in message ... jon, Thanks, That is a great reference!!!! jojo Don't thank me, thank Larry Gilstrap, he's the one who took the time to put that page together. Best wishes and enjoy your scope. Lots to see in a 4.5 inch Newtonian. If you scope can take 1.25 inch eyepieces, you might want to consider getting a few basic eyepieces to add to your collection, they should improve the views considerably. www.scopestuff.com has some nice deals. Another thing to be aware of. Your scope is "rated" by the manufacturer at 675X. This is just a marketing ploy, scopes are not rated this way and it is unreasonable to think that 675X would be anymore than a fuzzy mess. it would be in most scopes the vast majority of the time. The rule of thumb is 50 times the aperture in inches is the highest useable magnification under the best circumstances. For your scope this works out to about 220X. Even with larger scopes, 10 inches and above, most viewing is done at under 200X. So, 200X is more than enough, 120X and under will probably be where most of the nice views are in this scope, plenty to see there. Just a bit of a "heads up" to head of some possible frustration and disappointment. Again, best wishes on your new scope and enjoy the heck out of it. jon Thank jon, Question, 50 times my aperture (4.5") give me the maximum reasonable magnification. If I'm using a 12mm lens, what is the magnification? What is the math? also, what part of the equation does the focal length play? Thanks, jojo |
#17
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Thank jon,
Question, 50 times my aperture (4.5") give me the maximum reasonable magnification. If I'm using a 12mm lens, what is the magnification? What is the math? also, what part of the equation does the focal length play? Thanks, jojo Magnification is the focal length of the telescope divided by the focal length of the eyepiece. With the 12mm the magnification is: 900mm/12mm= 75X With the 20mm: 900mm/20mm= 45X Both very reasonable. A 32 mm would provide you with a nice wide field of view at abou 29X. A barlow is a good tool but i think that it is likely that you would find that some basic plossl eyepieces would improve the view over your current eyepieces. jon |
#18
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![]() "Jon Isaacs" wrote in message ... Thank jon, Question, 50 times my aperture (4.5") give me the maximum reasonable magnification. If I'm using a 12mm lens, what is the magnification? What is the math? also, what part of the equation does the focal length play? Thanks, jojo Magnification is the focal length of the telescope divided by the focal length of the eyepiece. With the 12mm the magnification is: 900mm/12mm= 75X With the 20mm: 900mm/20mm= 45X Both very reasonable. A 32 mm would provide you with a nice wide field of view at abou 29X. A barlow is a good tool but i think that it is likely that you would find that some basic plossl eyepieces would improve the view over your current eyepieces. jon Thanks! I find that I use the 12 mm the most often for moon and planets. The 4mm just seems to have too small a field. I have never found anything in deep space such as other galaxies or nebulae. Given my setup, what is the preferred lens for such deep space objects? To be able to see the object as clearly as possible with a decent field of view? about the Barlow...say I wanted 150x magnification. what would allow me the best field and light gathering, a 12mm with a 2x Barlow or a 6mm lens (900mm focal length)? as far as price goes the Barlow has much more usefulness and it can multiply any lens, but am I giving up quality of field using a Barlow (in this instance) instead of a 6mm? jojo |
#19
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#20
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On Thu, 18 Sep 2003 12:56:54 GMT, "jojo" ...reflected:
"jojo" wrote in message .com... how do I know if I need to culminating? Sorry folks. A hasty post that spell check took over! jojo You were understood. Alan |
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