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OK, so what's the "ideal" and practical Dob size? I'm struggling with what I
want to seek out as far as a Dob goes...yes, I can try them all at a star party.... OK, I've arrived at 12.5" F/6 with a good 1/10 wave or better pyrex mirror...I'm 6'2" The f/6 should be a bit better on planets than a f/4.5 right? Is 12.5" enough---silly, it's never enough---but is it? Is it better to go 14 or 15 " and say f/4.5 or f/4? When you get up here...is it better to have another 2" of aperture or is it better to be a bit "slower"? I want a good quality truss Dob around $2200-$2500 How much better is a 1/10 wave or better mirror compared to a mass produced---Orion? 12.5" mirror? I need a discussion. Cloydy nights doesn't have many reviews in this range...why? Doink |
#2
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Check out some of the ones listed in the FAQ, some good top end scope makers
are listed. You could also check out astromart too. -- "And for the second time in four million years, the monolith awoke." Arthur C.Clarke 2062 ![]() SIAR http://starlords.netfirms.com Telescope Buyers FAQ http://home.inreach.com/starlord Bishop's Car Fund http://www.bishopcarfund.netfirms.com/ "Doink" wrote in message ... OK, so what's the "ideal" and practical Dob size? I'm struggling with what I want to seek out as far as a Dob goes...yes, I can try them all at a star party.... OK, I've arrived at 12.5" F/6 with a good 1/10 wave or better pyrex mirror...I'm 6'2" The f/6 should be a bit better on planets than a f/4.5 right? Is 12.5" enough---silly, it's never enough---but is it? Is it better to go 14 or 15 " and say f/4.5 or f/4? When you get up here...is it better to have another 2" of aperture or is it better to be a bit "slower"? I want a good quality truss Dob around $2200-$2500 How much better is a 1/10 wave or better mirror compared to a mass produced---Orion? 12.5" mirror? I need a discussion. Cloydy nights doesn't have many reviews in this range...why? Doink --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.779 / Virus Database: 526 - Release Date: 10/19/04 |
#3
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On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 21:43:05 -0700, Doink wrote:
I need a discussion. Cloydy nights doesn't have many reviews in this range...why? Go to: www.excelsis.com and click on the little box at the top-right margin which contains the word astronomy reviews. You'll find more telescope reviews on all manufacturers and their telescopes written by amateur astronomers then you could imagine. -- Martin "Photographs From the Universe of Amateur Astronomy" http://home.earthlink.net/~martinhowell |
#4
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OK, I've arrived at 12.5" F/6 with a good 1/10 wave or better pyrex
mirror...I'm 6'2" I'm 6 ft 1". I prefer to view seated. What is your preference? The f/6 should be a bit better on planets than a f/4.5 right? Is 12.5" enough---silly, it's never enough---but is it? Is it better to go 14 or 15 " and say f/4.5 or f/4? When you get up here...is it The vast majority of the time the views will not be limited by your optics but rather by the seeing. Also, consider that only the center of the FOV is important for planetary viewing... A 15 incher at F5 will have about the same eyepiece height as a 12.5 incher at F6. A 16 incher would be F4.7. A fast scope with a Paracorr will give pretty good wide field views when used with good quality eyepieces and it is the aperture you are after here. A 16 inch scope will have 63% more mirror area than a 12.5 incher. I need a discussion. Cloydy nights doesn't have many reviews in this range...why? There is not a great deal of difference between a 12.5 inch F5 scope and a 12.5 inch F6 scope optically, there is a great deal of difference from a useability/transportability standpoint. My 12.5 inch scope has an OTA that is 52 inches long and fits in my Ford Escort. With a Paracorr, it gives very nice views even widefield. From my point of view, if I am going to get a scope that has the hassle of dealing with a 75 inch long focal length, I am going to make sure that it has enough aperture that it will be a significant improvement over my current scope. Also, the difference between a 10 incher and a 12.5 incher is noticeable but not earth shattering, so if your current scope is in the 10 inch range, you probably want to go significantly bigger. I think a good choice would be a Truss DOB with optics from a 16 inch Meade DOB. Bottom line is that its about getting the most aperture into the most useable package. IMHO, the gains above F5 are not worth the added OTA length. jon |
#5
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An article on issues relating to f ratio & mirrors that you might find
interesting: http://www.rfroyce.com/mirror_performance.htm An article on why 14.5 inches is better than 12 or 16 for various deepsky things that you can extrapolate to planets too, perhaps: http://www.tscopes.com/T14/AboutT14.html Regards, Mike -- Non, Je Ne Regrette Rien. E.P. "Jon Isaacs" wrote in message ... OK, I've arrived at 12.5" F/6 with a good 1/10 wave or better pyrex mirror...I'm 6'2" I'm 6 ft 1". I prefer to view seated. What is your preference? The f/6 should be a bit better on planets than a f/4.5 right? Is 12.5" enough---silly, it's never enough---but is it? Is it better to go 14 or 15 " and say f/4.5 or f/4? When you get up here...is it The vast majority of the time the views will not be limited by your optics but rather by the seeing. Also, consider that only the center of the FOV is important for planetary viewing... A 15 incher at F5 will have about the same eyepiece height as a 12.5 incher at F6. A 16 incher would be F4.7. A fast scope with a Paracorr will give pretty good wide field views when used with good quality eyepieces and it is the aperture you are after here. A 16 inch scope will have 63% more mirror area than a 12.5 incher. I need a discussion. Cloydy nights doesn't have many reviews in this range...why? There is not a great deal of difference between a 12.5 inch F5 scope and a 12.5 inch F6 scope optically, there is a great deal of difference from a useability/transportability standpoint. My 12.5 inch scope has an OTA that is 52 inches long and fits in my Ford Escort. With a Paracorr, it gives very nice views even widefield. From my point of view, if I am going to get a scope that has the hassle of dealing with a 75 inch long focal length, I am going to make sure that it has enough aperture that it will be a significant improvement over my current scope. Also, the difference between a 10 incher and a 12.5 incher is noticeable but not earth shattering, so if your current scope is in the 10 inch range, you probably want to go significantly bigger. I think a good choice would be a Truss DOB with optics from a 16 inch Meade DOB. Bottom line is that its about getting the most aperture into the most useable package. IMHO, the gains above F5 are not worth the added OTA length. jon |
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The other thing I wanted to say (hit send too fast there :-) was: if you
haven't already got a copy, you should think about grabbing the program Newt off the net, to play around with different secondary size/focuser size/f ratio combinations and to check out vignetting, illuminated area and such like. Even if you're not thinking of building the scope you can decide which combination of compromises you want to go ahead and buy. Regards (again), Mike -- Non, Je Ne Regrette Rien. E.P. "Michael Kreuzer" wrote in message ... An article on issues relating to f ratio & mirrors that you might find interesting: http://www.rfroyce.com/mirror_performance.htm An article on why 14.5 inches is better than 12 or 16 for various deepsky things that you can extrapolate to planets too, perhaps: http://www.tscopes.com/T14/AboutT14.html Regards, Mike -- Non, Je Ne Regrette Rien. E.P. "Jon Isaacs" wrote in message ... OK, I've arrived at 12.5" F/6 with a good 1/10 wave or better pyrex mirror...I'm 6'2" I'm 6 ft 1". I prefer to view seated. What is your preference? The f/6 should be a bit better on planets than a f/4.5 right? Is 12.5" enough---silly, it's never enough---but is it? Is it better to go 14 or 15 " and say f/4.5 or f/4? When you get up here...is it The vast majority of the time the views will not be limited by your optics but rather by the seeing. Also, consider that only the center of the FOV is important for planetary viewing... A 15 incher at F5 will have about the same eyepiece height as a 12.5 incher at F6. A 16 incher would be F4.7. A fast scope with a Paracorr will give pretty good wide field views when used with good quality eyepieces and it is the aperture you are after here. A 16 inch scope will have 63% more mirror area than a 12.5 incher. I need a discussion. Cloydy nights doesn't have many reviews in this range...why? There is not a great deal of difference between a 12.5 inch F5 scope and a 12.5 inch F6 scope optically, there is a great deal of difference from a useability/transportability standpoint. My 12.5 inch scope has an OTA that is 52 inches long and fits in my Ford Escort. With a Paracorr, it gives very nice views even widefield. From my point of view, if I am going to get a scope that has the hassle of dealing with a 75 inch long focal length, I am going to make sure that it has enough aperture that it will be a significant improvement over my current scope. Also, the difference between a 10 incher and a 12.5 incher is noticeable but not earth shattering, so if your current scope is in the 10 inch range, you probably want to go significantly bigger. I think a good choice would be a Truss DOB with optics from a 16 inch Meade DOB. Bottom line is that its about getting the most aperture into the most useable package. IMHO, the gains above F5 are not worth the added OTA length. jon |
#7
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![]() "Doink" wrote in message ... I want a good quality truss Dob around $2200-$2500 Primary issues: Eyepiece height Portability Cooldown Secondary issues: Size of the secondary Maximum field of view Discussion: Eyepiece height needs to be around 9 inches lower than your total body length, in order to stand comfortably and view at the zenith. I'm 5' 7" and through experimentation I've discovered that 58" is the most comfortable. I can go to 60", but it requires too much stretching for best comfort (I have a 12.5" F4.8 sonotube Dob). Portability means a lot of different things to different people. I only need to move a scope from the garage to the backyard, so it's possible to have any size scope I like.. that is, portability isn't really an issue, given a little ingenuity, and wheels. Having a truss dob isn't important for this, although it would take up less room in the garage. The difference in portability between a 12" truss and an 16" truss isn't likely something to even think about, unless you have a really small car, or don't want to use ramps and wheel barrow handles to roll it up into the back of the mini-van. I do know that a 16" Tscope base with mirror installed can be lifted by one reasonably strong-backed individual, but if lifting it a lot is in the plan, smaller is better appreciated. I'm guessing the 14" Tscope (in particular) is pretty easy to handle this way. Cooldown, in my mind, is the biggest of all issues when it comes to a reflector. The difference in cooldown times between mirrors with a difference of 4" in aperture isn't insignificant.There are ways to mitigate this, and the level of thermal management one requires is based a lot on geographic location. Here in Massachusetts, temperature drops occur rapidly in the early evening, and can continue to do so through midnight, especially during Spring and Fall. Once you achieve sufficient cooldown, you may have to constantly play catch up... a fan is really a good idea, otherwise, a smaller mirror that tracks changes more rapidly. Size of the secondary (minor axis) is a design parameter in a large reflector that one must take into consideration when planning the OTA, focal length, illuminated field of view, and any back-focus requirements. Generally you want to keep it at 20% of the diameter of the primary mirror for a good trade-off between high contrast and shortened focal length (shorter tube length, and lower zenith eyepiece height). That said, the XT10 I once owned was 25% obstructed and it did a good job on planets, as well as deep sky under dark conditions. My F4.8 12.5" Dob has a 2.6" (20%) secondary and it performs better than the XT10 on planets (and everything else too). Difficult to claim it's the difference in CO, since there is also the additional resolution of a 2.5" more aperture. However, as a reference point, the 12.5" with 2.6" Secondary, performs better than the 10" with 2.5" secondary on every object, but the 10" F5 was easier to transport (again not an issue for me really). Maximum field of view is determined solely by focal length of the telescope and the field stop of your largest usable eyepiece. One _must_ keep in mind however, that an obstructed scope has an upper limit on the usable focal length of an eyepiece, because as you increase the exit pupil (ep focal length/ primary mirror focal ratio), you also increase the percentage of the exit pupil that is occupied by the secondary obstruction, which then blocks light from entering the eye. An 8mm exit pupil might seriously degrade image brightness in an obstructed scope. 7mm is considered a maximum, for example a 35mm eyepiece in an F5 obstructed scope or a 32mm eyepiece in an F4.5. These would then also be wide field designs that use a 2" barrell for maximum field stop. (A 1.25" barrel has a max field stop of just 27mm, where a 2" can go up to around 46mm field stop.) Hope that helps, and gives you plenty to think about. Alternatively, you could let someone else do all the thinking and planning. If I had the cash you are talking about here, I'd go right ahead and order the 14" Tscope from Ed Taychert. I wouldn't give it a second thought. His 14" scope has a good eyepiece height for me. I'd get the fan option though. Maybe even two fans, even if it requires a little custom work on his part. -Stephen |
#8
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Doink wrote:
OK, I've arrived at 12.5" F/6 with a good 1/10 wave or better pyrex mirror...I'm 6'2" The f/6 should be a bit better on planets than a f/4.5 right? Is 12.5" enough---silly, it's never enough---but is it? Is it better to go 14 or 15 " and say f/4.5 or f/4? When you get up here...is it better to have another 2" of aperture or is it better to be a bit "slower"? 12.5" is an excellent size. I think 15" is ideal, but 12.5" is excellent. Jane's Litebox 12.5" goes with us pretty much everywhere. http://www.litebox-telescopes.com Mojo -- Morris Jones * Monrovia, CA http://www.whiteoaks.com |
#9
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On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 21:43:05 -0700, "Doink"
wrote: OK, so what's the "ideal" and practical Dob size? I'm struggling with what I want to seek out as far as a Dob goes...yes, I can try them all at a star party.... Ed Taychert makes an argument for 14" being the ideal size on this web page: http://www.tscopes.com/T14/AboutT14.html Note: I have no connection to Taychert Telescopes, other than being a satisfied owner of one of his scopes. -Paul W. ---------- Remove 'Z' to reply by email. |
#10
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"Doink" wrote in message ...
OK, so what's the "ideal" and practical Dob size? I'm struggling with what I want to seek out as far as a Dob goes...yes, I can try them all at a star party.... OK, I've arrived at 12.5" F/6 with a good 1/10 wave or better pyrex mirror...I'm 6'2" The f/6 should be a bit better on planets than a f/4.5 right? Is 12.5" enough---silly, it's never enough---but is it? Is it better to go 14 or 15 " and say f/4.5 or f/4? When you get up here...is it better to have another 2" of aperture or is it better to be a bit "slower"? Well for planets, unless you enjoy truely extraordinary seeing, you probably will not gain a huge amount of planetary detail by moving to a larger scope; if you want to view deepsky though bigger is better; though even 12.5" will bring thousands upon thousands of clusters, nebulas and galaxies into reach. Regarding focal length. Longer focal lengths do have some advantages. 1. In general you can have a smaller secondary to achieve a reasonable fully illuminated field of view; though in larger scopes even fairly fast ones can keep the secondary reasonably small. Also of course the disadvantage of slow scopes in this regard is that once you move out of the 100% illumination area, illumination drops off rapidly. A faster scope you can cheat a bit knowing that you really won't notice if illumination drops off to 70% or so at the edge of the field. 2. Collimation is easier in slower scopes, which is definitely an issue in Truss scopes that are broken down after use. On the flip side with a good mirror cell and a laser collimator you can probably get collimation adjusted in 5-10 minutes. 3. Mirror Quality is an issue. If you are ordering from Discovery or some other similar mid-priced mirror producer, slow mirrors will tend to be of higher quality. If you are getting a Zambuto, Spooner, Royce or other similar high end maker they will give you an excellent product regardless the f-ratio. One consideration regarding focal length is that a 12.5" f/6 is probably going to place the eyepiece a little above your eye-level at Zenith. If possible I would want to do a 12.5" f5.5. Granted having to use a step stool or small ladder is not the end of the world, but in general I think the smaller scopes are easier (and thus more likely to be used) to use when you can keep both feet on the ground. Regarding size versus focal length; well in general assuming everything else is equal, a 15" f/5 Dob is going to be a better scope than a 12.5" f/6 Dob. The key of course is everything else being equal. I think going for a slightly smaller scope like the 12.5" is a good idea if it means you can afford a much better mirror and mechanicals. A pristine 12.5" mirror will be better than a mediocre 15" (Though theorretically you might still see more in the 15", the views through the 12.5" will be more pleasing). I want a good quality truss Dob around $2200-$2500 Well the more you limit your budget, the more sense if makes to go with the smaller scope if you want to stay within the high quality range. How much better is a 1/10 wave or better mirror compared to a mass produced---Orion? 12.5" mirror? Well 1/10 wave mirrors is kind of a fuzzey definition of mirrors. That being said, Orion's reflectors have been rather good as of late; I haven't seen the 12.5 but an 8" and 10" I looked through were both good scopes; real bargins for their price. I would guess that they would give you about 90% of the pristine view that a high end optic installed in a similar telescope would give. Over all I would guess that the overall experience would be about 80-85% of the Custom Dobs.. but at half the price or less. Of course the 12.5" in a solid tube is going to be a real beast to transport particularly if you lack an SUV or pick-up. I need a discussion. Cloydy nights doesn't have many reviews in this range...why? Because people have a tendency to go rather big when they make the jump to truss-tube Dobsonians. I have seen more 17.5"-20" Dobs than 15" Dobs and 12.5" truss tubes are rather rare (at least where I do most of my observing). (Though 10-11" starmasters seem reasonably common ![]() close to the idea size in reflectors; small enough to observe with feet planted firmly on the ground (well at least if your 6'0 tall ![]() but big enough to give some impressive views of the deep skies. -- Bill |
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